Neelesh Bhandari
9 min readFeb 9, 2018

Amarnath: The Story Behind the Mythical Shiv’s Abode

The Himalayan pilgrimages are the oldest organised travel system, evolved over time by Hindu sages. They combine the spirit of wonder with that of adventure and spirituality. Amarnath cave is a Hindu shrine located in Jammu and Kashmir, India. The cave is situated at an altitude of 3,888 m (12,756 ft), about 141 km (88 mi) from Srinagar, the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir can be reached through Pahalgam town. The shrine forms an important part of Hinduism, and is one of the holiest shrines in Hinduism. [1] The mountains are covered in snow for most of the year the trek only opens in summers as the glacier melts, trek can be done from Pahalgam as well as Baltal. Trek from baltal is shorter but its treacherous. Historically trek must be done from Pahalgam, as the same has been taken by lord Shiva to reach the holy cave. Moreover, it is the scenic and safer one which you will witness in the upcoming photostory.

Shiv Ling at the Holy Cave Depiction of Mahadev as Adiyogi in Himalayas

According to the mythological texts this is the cave where Shiva explained the secret of Eternal life to his ardhangini (Spouse) Parvati. The story starts when Maa Parvati insisted that she may be told that secret. Finally, on consistent demand from Maa Parvati He made up his mind to tell the immortal secret. He started for a lonely place where no living being could listen it. He pinned down to Amarnath Cave in the mighty Himalayas.

Mighty Himalayas En-Route the Holy Cave

In preparation to that He left His Nandi (The Bull which He used to ride) at Pahalgam (Bail gaon). Pahalgam at 7500 ft is a senic town on the bank of Lidder river, often called mini Switzerland of India.

Base camp at Pahalgam, River Lidder swelled with glacier water

At Chandanwari 9500 ft He released Moon from his hair (Jataon). This is one of the other tourist attraction through out the year for the scenic beauty and calmness of the place from the busy city life.

River Lidder En-route Holy Cave

The view for the Pissutop at 11500 ft is mesmerizing one, first stop en-route to the Holi Cave will overwhelm with the presence of locals as well as Langar’s helping the devotees for their trek.

Camp at Chandanwari and Devotees trekking to Holy Cave
Pissutop’s natural terrain, one can spot wild horses as well

After 3–5 Hrs of trek from Pissu top one reach the Sheshnag. At the banks of Lake Sheshnag Lord Shiv released the snakes. You will see a gigantic lake at 11730 ft poured by glacier water gives the reflection and stature of the snake which resides beneath the lake as per the legends. Now, this place is a camp for Indian armed forces as well to protect devotees from any threat and providing medical facility. As at this high-altitude health can go bad any time, most common issue is breathing problem.

Sheshnag Lake is an alpine high altitude oligotrophic lake

At a mountain top he decided to leave his Son Ganesh now called as Mahagunas Parvat (MahaGanesh Hill). This is the highest point in the trek which will test your ability and endurance. Having a tea and hot Maggie in the coldest of the weather and highest point is a real treat thanks to the locals who setup this throughout the yatra season.

Glacier at Mahagunas, this peak is covered in snow for 9–10 months a year

As you descend from Mahagunas you reach the valley of Panchtarni, it is the most scenic plain enclosed by mighty Himalayas. This is the start point for devotee who choose to travel by helicopter. At Panchtarni, Shivji left the Five Elements (Earth, Water, Air, Fire and Sky) behind which make living being. He is the Lord of these elements and the cosmic Adiyogi. It is believed that as a symbol of sacrificing the earthly world, Lord Shiva and Parvati had Tandav Dance.

Plain at Panchtarni, base camp for Pilgrims travelling by helicopter

After leaving behind all these, Bhole Shankar enters the Holy Amarnath Cave along with Parvati. Lord Shiva takes his Samadhi on the Deer Skin and concentrate. To ensure that no living being can hear the Immortal Tale, He created Rudra named Kalagni and ordered him to spread fire to eliminate every living thing in and around the Holy Cave.

THE HOLY CAVE — HAR HAR MAHADEV

After this He started narrating the secret of immortality to Parvati. But as a matter of chance one pigeon egg which was lying beneath the Deer skin remained protected. It is believed to be nonliving and more over it was protected by Shiva -Parvati Asan. The pair of pigeons which were born out of this egg became immortal having listened the secret of immortality (Amar Katha). Devotee do report sighting pigeon in and around Holy cave.

Amarnath Pilgrimage — Myths and legends

· ​The earliest reference to Amarnath can be seen in the Nilamata Purana (v.1324), a 6th century Sanskrit text which depicts the religious and cultural life of the early Kashmiris and details many of Kashmir’s own creation myths. The pilgrimage to the holy cave has been described with full topographical details in the Bhringish Samhita and the Amarnatha Mahatmya. Both these ancient texts are thought to have been composed even earlier. References to Amarnath, have also been made in historical chronicles like the Rajatarangini and its sequels and several Western travellers’ accounts. The original name of the tirtha, as given in the ancient texts is Amareshwara- the immortal god. In course of time it became Amarnath — the immortal Lord.

· One of the legends gives the story of the Naga Sushruvas, who in his fury burnt to ashes the kingdom of King Nara when the latter tried to abduct his daughter, who was already married to a Brahmin youth. After the carnage he made his abode near the lake now known as Sheshnag, which is one of the stops on the yatra.

· ​​​In his Chronicle of Kashmir, a sequel to Kalhana’s Rajatarangini, Jonaraja re­lates that Sultan Zain-Ul-Abidin during the construction of a canal-Shah Kol- along the left bank of the river Lidar (1420-­ A.D) paid a visit to the sacred tirtha of Amarnath.

· Guru Arjan Dev is said to have granted land in Amritsar for the ceremonial departure of Chari, the holy mace of Lord Shiva which marks the beginning of the Yatra to the Holy Cave. In 1819, the year in which the Afghan rule came to an end in Kashmir, Pandit Hardas Tiku founded the Chhawni Amarnath at Ram Bagh in Srinagar where the Sadhus from the plains assembled and were given free rations for the journey, both ways from his own private resources. This has been referred to by the Kashmiri naturalist Pandit Samsar Chand Kaul, in his booklet titled “The Mysterious cave of Amarnath”. The cave is deeply enshrined in Kashmiri folklore.

· In the Chronicle of Rajavalipataka, which was begun by Prjagyabhatta and completed by Shukla, there is a detailed reference to a pilgrimage to the sacred site (v. 84I, v 847–849) According to it, in a reply to Akbar’s query about Kashmir, Yusuf Khan the Mughal governor of Kashmir at that time, described among other things ‘the Amarnath Yatra’ in full detail. His description shows that not only the pilgrimage in vogue in Akbar’s time (1586 A.D)-­but the phenomenon of waxing and wan­ing of the-ice Linga was also well known. ​Amareshwara (Amarnath) was a famous pilgrimage place in the time of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan also. Famous Sanskrit scholar Panditraja Jagannath, in his eulogy of Asif Khan, Shahjahan’s father-in-law, titled “Asif Vilas”, has mentioned Amareshwara (Amarnath).

· ​​Once when the great sage called Bhrigu was travelling through this region he saw a cave. He was drawn to go inside and there he was struck with wonder when he saw the huge ice lingam within. He is said to have been the first to have Darshan of the Holy Cave with the image of Shiva, in the form of a Lingam. It is actually a stalactite, which starts growing with the waxing of the moon in the month of Ashada (July/August) and reaches its full size on the day of the full moon in the month of Shravana (August/September). By its side are two more ice Lingams, which are thought to be those of Parvati and Ganesha. This is why in ancient days when journeys to those precarious regions took much more time than they do now, the yatra used to take a full month and began on Ashadha Poornima (Full Moon Day of Hindu Month ‘Ashadha’ (July/august) and ended on Shravana Poornima (Full Moon Day of Hindu Month ‘Shravana’ August/September), when the Lingam reached its zenith.

Amarnath Citation

· Francois Bernier, a French physician, accompanied Emperor Aurangzeb during his visit to Kashmir in 1663. In his book “Travels in the Mughal Empire”, he writes an account of all the places he visited in Kashmir. He says that he went on a journey to a grotto full of wonderful ice formations which was a two days journey from Sangsafed. At that time he was recalled by the emperor who was worried by his long absence. The editor of the second edition of the English translation of the book, Vincient A. Smith, writes in his introduction: “The grotto full of wonderful coagulations is the Amarnath cave, where blocks of ice, stalactites formed by dripping water from the roof are worshipped by many Hindus who deem these to be the images of Shiva.

· Another traveller, Vigne, in his book “Travels in Kashmir, Ladakh and Iskardu” writes about the pilgrimage to the sacred spot in detail, mentioning that “the ceremony at the cave of Amarnath takes place on the 15th of the Hindoo month of Sawan” and that “ Hindoos of every rank and caste can be seen collecting together and travelling up the valley of Liddar towards the celebrated cave.” He visited Kashmir after his return from Ladakh in 1840–41 and published his book in 1842. His book claims that the Amarnath Yatra drew pilgrims from the whole of India in his time and was undertaken with great enthusiasm.

Myth and citations has been taken from many references including scattered articles of other authors, Special thanks to stories provided by random people/Guru during the Yarta.

Har Har MahaDev

Neelesh Bhandari
Neelesh Bhandari

Written by Neelesh Bhandari

I'm a mechanical engineer and an IITian & a photographer, art lover and an adventure junkie..!!

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